Hillsborough
Sheffield
S6 2LL
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one can just suspend the aerials from string.
Doing the latter is more time consuming but it will work just as well.
The bracket mounts perpendicular or parallel.
Although some people use the above items to mount installations outside, we do not recommend it and the accompanying picture illustrates why ! It probably comes from Argos, that purveyor of fine aerial products. Still, at
least the aerial isn`t one of those “Gold”
ones, they look so naff.........
Also see “The Ultimate Aerial Installation”.
Poles and Brackets (Also see Online / Mail Order Sales)
Subjects on this page are listed in the following order
Steel poles. Eventually, they all come down.... Note the 6” pressed brackets
Then we have Alloy poles. Not only are they rust free but they will flex slightly in the wind
(some think this absorbs some of the shock loading) and they`re lighter as well. Both of
these will help in putting a little less strain on the bracket, and on your brickwork....
Unfortunately alloy masting is more expensive and (size for size) is weaker than
steel unless the appropriate (i.e. larger) gauge/diameter is used.
This is one of my favourite pictures on the entire site, in fact I like it so much it`s also
on the Sales page ! Nothing shows so vividly the differing qualities of materials used in this
trade. Remember that the 1” steel pole was originally galvanised, although as we have
already seen it was only “Pre-
became so thin that eventually the pole snapped in the wind. Compare the two alloy poles,
the 1” pole`s smaller size and thinner wall are immediately obvious and a 6ft length weighs
about 450g. The 1.25” x 16 gauge pole`s superiority is plain to see and a 6 foot length of
this pole has a weight of around 750g, that`s 67% more metal....
This is the only type of 6ft pole we sell / install , in normal usage it will never fail.
Let`s compare the three commonly supplied varieties of 6 ft alloy mast. They can be either
straight or of the cranked/swan neck variety. The first type is 1" diameter x 18 gauge, they
are the equivalent of 3” fence posts and we would not use a 6ft pole of this type under any
circumstances. In fact I am prepared to say publicly that any installer using such a pole
(particularly with a large aerial) should be wearing a Stetson.
That said, if the installation shown below was done by the house owner one cannot
necessarily blame him. I was in DIY shed the other day and the only 6ft pole they sell is
a 1”x 18 gauge, we call them “B & Q Specials”.....
I wonder where the
installer who fitted this
6ft x 1” alloy pole tied
up his horse ?
And he (or she !) has only
used a 6” chimney bracket.
See our tests of Poles,
and also Cowboys` Locker
Incidentally, why has Roy
(as in Rogers, as in cowboy)
fitted a 5 element DAB aerial ?
So few people actually need
one of those that we don`t even
sell them ! Could it possibly be
was so he could charge more ?
Theoretically the higher an aerial is mounted the more signal it will receive. It is certainly
the case that if any additional height is used to give adequate clearance (preferably by at
least 3ft) to an obstruction in the path to the transmitter (e.g. a roof) the additional wind
loading and larger bracket(s) required are very worthwhile. However in most cases
(assuming the aerial is mounted at “normal” installation height, say 25ft from the ground)
unless there is an obvious barrier to the transmission path I have my doubts about just
how much extra signal you would get from (say) using a 10ft pole rather than a 6ft.
Remember we`re talking the difference in the total aerial height, e.g. from 25ft to 29ft.
Obviously if you live in a dip and your reception path is only just clearing the hillside,
or indeed is through it, then any extra height may be significant, but generally speaking I
wouldn`t expect miracles. Quite apart from anything else reception sites vary from sea level
to 1000ft (or more) so how is four foot going to make that much difference ! Having said all
of the above, particularly if the aerial is mounted relatively low to the ground (e.g.on a
bungalow) and you`ve tried everything else, then a longer pole is always worth a punt !
In April 2008 we did some aerial height experiments to see on just how much extra signal
one gets from an aerial 3ft 3in higher (the extra height from a 10 ft pole over a 6ft) and
these more or less backed up the advice given above.
On a related point if you are suffering from ghosting (or an RF dead spot) then moving the aerial laterally may well be more effective than using a higher pole.
Steel Poles rust from the inside !
Do you really want that on the front of your house ?
I have seen rusting steel brackets fitted on the apex
of rendered walls with huge rust stains stretching out
beneath them.... All for the sake of a bit of decent
galvanising. The latter is just what you get on a
galvanised welded bracket and these are
the only type we sell. None of your "Pre-
this is "Hot Dipped" galvanising and it is very
impressive. We`ve seen brackets that have been up
15 years plus without a trace of rust staining.
We have got an experiment running where we`ve
actually tried to file off the galvanising finish (on a
section of bracket) and left it outside in the rain.
It hasn`t rusted at all in five years !
I really wonder how anyone could contemplate using
a painted bracket, tight gits.......
The next category up (in terms of strength) is the welded bracket. These are significantly
stronger than the pressed variety and are welded together out of steel angle/bar of typical
thickness 3.5 to 5.5mm. Note, there are significant differences in the thickness of steel
(used in supposedly identical brackets) according to which manufacturer has produced
them. Welded brackets are available in either painted or galvanised finish. Although there is
no difference strength wise between them (it would take decades, in normal conditions, for
corrosion to significantly affect that thickness of metal) the difference in finish is chalk and
cheese. A painted bracket can start rusting almost straight away and will usually show
significant staining within a few years.
Remember that it is totally irrelevant how strong the bracket(s) are if the
bodging installer only uses two wall screws , so check he uses four !
The picture above shows
a 6”x 6”, a 6”x 9”, and
a 9”x 9” wall bracket.
(All are of welded construction and “Hot Dipped” galvanised, also see “Wall or Chimney ?” )
We also sell the wall fixings for our brackets.
(Also see Online Sales and Mail Order Sales including price information)
There are two opposing views as to
which should go at the top. The K is
obviously the more robust bracket
and the received wisdom is that this
should go at the bottom because,
being further down, the wall is
stronger there. However the top
bracket is probably under the most
stress (certainly if the wind is blowing
the pole away from the wall) and so
some think the K should go there
instead ! Basically one has to work
out the relative importance of the two
factors for the particular install being
undertaken. For an install at the peak
of a gable I would put the K at the
bottom, whereas on a strong flat top
wall I`d put the K at the top.
But it`s six of one and half a dozen of
the other really.
In the left hand picture we have a 6”x 6” and 8”x 8”(mitre) chimney bracket.
The right hand picture shows the contents of a “Lashing Kit”. The latter includes 5m of
pre-
this is the only pre-
is bigger than 5m we also supply a 10m length of the 7 strand galvanised lashing wire. This can
be either used instead of the supplied length or used to extend it . Do not confuse this with catenary wire, 7 strand lash wire is approx 3.7mm in diameter and weighs about 65g per metre.
Close Up of lash wire terminations
On the left is a “pre-
The one on the right is made up by the installer, with the lash wire at the correct length
to fit round the chimney and hold the bracket tightly on the side of the stack.
Summary of which bracket to use with which pole / aerial
A 3ft pole can utilise a 6” welded wall bracket (6 x 6” or 6 x 9”) for any size aerial.
If mounting on a chimney an aerial up to the size of our Yagi18 or DY14 can utilise a 6”
bracket but an XB16 / XB22 should use an 8” mitre, to be on the safe side
A 6ft pole can be used with a 6” welded wall bracket for any aerial up to a DY14 though
one must make sure the wall anchors are tight, particularly for the larger antennas.
For an XB16 / XB22 we would use a 9”x 9” wall bracket especially in exposed locations.
Since cranked poles put a bit more strain on the bracket it may be advisable to go for a
9”x 9” bracket with a crank, and definitely so if fitting a Supercrank pole.
An 8” mitre chimney bracket should be suitable for all of our antennas on a 6ft pole.
A 10ft pole should be suitable for use with a 9 x 9” wall bracket on any aerial, apart from
an XB16 / XB22, provided the wall anchors are tight. I would probably advise the use of two
brackets with an XB16 / XB22, particularly in exposed locations
An 8” mitre chimney bracket would be suitable for a small aerial (e.g. our DM log periodic)
but anything larger should use a pair of chimney brackets. These would usually (but not
necessarily) be the H/D type spaced at about 12”, or more for an XB16 / XB22 antenna.
I would be wary of fitting a pole of 10ft (particularly with a large aerial) on a small chimney
with any size of brackets.
A 16ft pole on a wall requires a pair of brackets (often T & Ks, but not necessarily) for any
size of aerial and they should be spaced at least 18” apart, or more for a larger antenna.
For chimney mounting a pair of lash kits and two brackets should be used. The latter
would usually, but not necessarily, be the H/D type. The spacing should be at least 20”
(or 30” for a large aerial) for a 16ft pole and I would be even more wary fitting it on a small
chimney ! It should be pointed out that it is very rare to have to fit a 16ft pole on a chimney.
The picture illustrates the difference in construction standard between a
pressed Chimney bracket and a welded type.
Perhaps even more striking is the amount of rust on the “Pre-
Note the “failed” steel pole.
Also see “Wall or Chimney Bracket ?”
For aerial poles up to 3ft supporting small or medium size
antennas we recommend and stock the 6”x 6” bracket (see
picture). It is important to stress that a 6” welded bracket
won`t (usually) “fail”, it`s the masonary which will go first,
because a 6” bracket only spreads the load across the
corners of two bricks, see picture on the left.
For other installations using poles up to 8ft and aerials up to
the size of a DY14 we sell the 8” mitre bracket.
If an XB16 is fitted with an 8” mitre we`d go up to a 6ft pole.
An 8” mitre usually covers three bricks and to a greater
“depth”, see picture below left. The mitre bracket should
also be used if your brickwork is in poor condition. Poles
longer than 8ft (or 6ft for an XB16) require a pair of brackets
and two lash kits.
(Also see Online Sales / Mail Order Sales)
Bertie Bodger`s “Bang Bang” Bracket
Note the crappy cheapo steel pole,
oh yes and the masonry has been
pulled out, and that`s out of a wall,
not a (weaker) chimney stack......
Note the fact that the loads imposed by the
installation are spread over three courses of bricks
and to a greater depth than the simpler types of
chimney bracket, compare to 6” bracket install.
This really is a fantastic product, also note the
pre-
Brackets. These are exceptionally strong but must be used as a pair with a separate lashing wire each.
These brackets come with 2” V bolts as the standard 1.5” size will not fit.
Pole can be mounted either side.
Shown above left are a pair of 12”and 24” T & K wall brackets though we also sell
18” and Heavy Duty 36” sizes. They are welded and “Hot Dipped” galvanised.
The “T” section and the “K” section are taped together in this picture but should be
used separately as the top/bottom pole mountings, see picture above and below right.
The crucial difference between a wall bracket and a chimney bracket is that the former is
screwed to the wall whereas the latter is lashed to it, in fact they are sometimes referred
to as lashing brackets. It is vital that this difference is appreciated because the main reason that
anything bolted to a wall has any strength is the bulk of the brickwork above (and around) those
to which it is actually screwed. Unless a chimney is of large proportions it is unlikely that there
will be sufficient bulk/weight in it for a screwed fixing to be adequate. The answer is to use a
lashing wire to tightly hold the bracket onto the corner of the chimney. For the same reason
mentioned above, there should be a few courses of brick left above the installation.
J-
used to provide the required tension, though the lashing kits we stock use a pre-
eye-
with the Lash Kits/Chimney Brackets we sell. Some installers fit “Self Supporting Brackets”
(sometimes called “Bang Bangs”) which do not utilise a lashing wire. They have two “L“ shaped
pieces of metal which are hammered into the mortar between the bricks, hence the term “Bang
Bangs”. Unless access problems are severe (and two are utilised to increase the support) most
riggers know they are a bit of a bodge because the strength of the install depends on the mortar
around just two bricks at the corner of the stack.
Brackets are classified according to their size (from the top pole clamp to the bottom one)
and their stand-
be when "in-
but bear in mind that these dimensions are to the end of the bracket, 3" to 4” will be "lost"
in accounting for the width of the pole / clamps, see picture below.
Always remember you don`t have to use a huge bracket if you can use a cranked pole !
Who would have thought that something as simple as a TV aerial pole could have so many
different types with such wide variations in quality....
Size for size Steel poles are stronger than alloy (not by as much as you`d think....) but
even though they`re galvanised they rust. How come ? Virtually all steel masting sold in this
country is "Pre-
a tube. The galvanising is much thinner than "Hot Dipped" and some manufacturers have
been known to just paint the weld line up the side of the tube. Incidentally, steel poles will
generally rust from the inside as shown in the picture below. Finally all Pre-
have an exposed unprotected edge where they are cut (or stamped) out and this is where
rust usually starts. Don`t get me wrong, a steel pole will take years to rust through to the
point where it becomes so thin that a strong gust of wind will break it, but eventually,
it will come down. See our tests of aerial / satellite poles
We are more than willing to give advice to those actually purchasing from us.
Could those only seeking information please just find the answer somewhere on this site,
or ring an aerial installer local to them, or call the reception advice phone numbers.
Results of pulling out one of our
M8 wall anchors using a tow
rope attached to a car !
The most basic clamp is the "V bolt" which bolts the pole to its
bracket. We stock these in M8 x 1.5", M10 x 2.0" and M10 x 2.75"
All our Vs come with zinc plated washers.
If replacing a pole even the tightest aerial installer would use new
V bolts, mainly because it`s far easier to just hacksaw off the old Vs
rather than try and undo the nuts on rusty ones.
If you have to use V bolts larger than 1.5” make sure you check they will fit the bracket. Some brackets, esp 6" types, only accept 1.5" Vs. You may have to drill an extra hole yourself, or get the file out !
When using V bolts I would tend to tighten the bottom one more
than the top one because if you crush the wall of the pole you will
significantly weaken it just at the point where it`s under most strain.
In our tests all the poles (unsurprisingly) failed at this point.
That said, crushing a 16G pole is less likely than with the thinner
18G version (we only sell 16G or 14G poles). The bottom V bolt can
be done up as much as you like to ensure the pole doesn`t twist in
the wind. Sufficiently tightening the bottom clamp is particularly
important if using an end mounted aerial (not that we recommend them for outside use anyway) or a cranked pole, and especially a Supercrank pole.
A 2”x 2” clamp is shown (above left) clamping two 2” poles in parallel.
Note that two are usually required to join two poles together. The clamp will
also clamp perpendicularly, though only a 1.25” to a 2” in that plane.
The clamp (above right) is a 2”x 1” [which will also clamp 2 x 1.25” poles
together], but it will only clamp perpendicularly, not parallel.
An alternative method of joining two poles (although they must both have a 2" diameter) is the 2" Pole Coupler, shown right.
If making up a longer mast we would advise using a thicker pole at the bottom (e.g. our 8ft “satellite pole” which is 14G/2mm) and the thinner pole (e.g. our
10ft x 2” x 16G/1.6mm) at the top, i.e. try not to use two 10ft (16G) poles.
Apart from looking a lot neater than two 2"x2" clamps, it had also has the advantage that you don`t "lose" the height of the pole that is required for the overlap between the two aforementioned clamps.
In addition we stock clamps in stock to attach poles to each other, either a 2" x 1" or a
2" x 2" is available. The latter type will clamp parallel or perpendicular but the smaller one
only perpendicularly. If two poles of any length are to be clamped in parallel it is normal
practice to use two clamps, also see Aerial Clamps / Cradles and Pole Couplers.
V bolt
V bolt
V bolt
Assuming that their aerial is sufficiently strong I don`t suppose most people mind birds perching
on them. After all they may well be tired and shagged out following a prolonged squawk.
However if your aerial is situated over the drive where you park your car, and the aforementioned
bird is doing what birds do (or should that be doo doo) then you
might not be so hospitable. You have a few options, apart from
buying a cat with an interest in aerials of course.
The best line of attack is more a case of defence, and that is to
mount the aerial * where the avians gifts to you won`t cause a
problem. Generally speaking this involves erecting the aerial
over the roof. If it`s on a chimney then that would normally be the
case anyway, but if it`s installed on a wall you might need to use
an L Section pole or even a side pole as in the picture to shift
the antenna back over the roof. Use of a side pole would
probably require a 2x1 clamp and a suitable length of 1” pole.
Alternatively a cranked pole or even a “Supercrank” might
achieve the desired relocation.
If all of the above ideas are unsuitable you could try using fishing
line or tie wraps. String the fishing line across the top of your
aerial, either from the top of the reflector down to the middle/front
elements, or from the pole above the aerial to the same points if
that is easier, as it would be with a Log Periodic type antenna.
Tie wraps can also be used to agitate the avians, leave the uncut lengths poking skywards,
they don`t like it up `em, apparently.
The advantage of using fishing line over tie wraps is that is looks a lot better.
After all fishing line is supposed to be invisible, to fish at any rate !
Make sure the fishing line is UV resistant though.
The first dimension mentioned in a bracket size is relevant according to the length of the pole which the bracket is expected to support. A longer pole will generate more leverage on the bracket (and the wall.....) and therefore a bigger bracket should be used.
There are basically three main variants of the standard
type brackets used on many installation jobs, that is to
say the 6"x 6" size (wall or chimney mount), though
6x6 brackets should only be used with poles less than
3ft on chimney jobs. The cheapest of the three is the
pressed steel type. It is galvanised but it is of the
“Pre-
being painted, it will not remain rust free anywhere near
as long as a "Hot Dipped" bracket would. As the name
implies it is just a bent piece of metal sheet (typical
thickness 2.5mm) and it is not in the same class
(strength wise) as a welded bracket, in fact they can
even be bent in imaginative ways......
Note. There could be some Health & Safety Bollocks ruling * about trying to fit
your own aerial, so consider this sentence to be a concession to that.
* They could call it the “Rod Hull Rule”.
It`s pity he didn`t fall on that bleedin` bird isn`t it ?
Or perhaps he did ?
Is that a tautology ?
Wall Anchors (Wall Fixings) (“Rawlplugs” v “Rawlbolts”)
The method used to fix a bracket to the wall is actually a subject of some debate.
Should one use wall anchors of the metal “Rawlbolt” type or (large versions of) the plastic
“Rawlplug” variety ? There are arguments on both sides. The Rawlbolt type fixings can
undoubtedly exert more grip on the brickwork, but there is a far greater risk of splitting the
masonry if you tighten the fixing too far. Furthermore if one uses an M8 Rawlbolt type fixing the
hole in the masonry must be 14mm, and that is a pretty big hole. The obvious answer is to use
a smaller one, but even an M6 Rawlbolt requires a 12mm hole and if one gets down to using a
Rawlbolt of that size then it`s debatable if it is any stronger (overall) than a well fitted Rawlplug
type fixing. The latter is the type that we stock. The critical point with this type of fixing is that the
anchor must be a tight fit in the masonry and be capable of taking a decent level of torque when
tightening up. Rawlbolt type fixings are more forgiving in that they can expand further to
compensate for a hole which may be a little too big or masonry which may be a little soft.
Provided adequate tightening torque can be applied to a Rawlplug type fixing it is highly doubtful
Finally, always remember to ensure that any wall anchor is screwed into the brick, not the mortar !
We once tried pulling one of our M8 Rawlplug type anchors out of the wall (with a tow rope
attached to a car) and it pulled half the brick out with it ! (see picture below)
We sell M8 x 50mm size wall screws and they are supplied with an M10 plug and an M8 plated
washer. They require a 10mm hole drilling in the masonry.
An aerial obviously requires a clamp to
attach it to the pole and the vast majority
of aerials come with a clamp, all the
aerials we sell certainly do. Most aerial
clamps will accept pole diameters up
to 2”, and again all of ours will do so.
Ideally all medium or large aerials
should be centre mounted (unless
installed in the loft) and cradles are
generally used to add support.
In addition they move the antenna away
from the pole which is particularly
important for vertically polarised aerials.
Tilting clamps allow for elevation of the end of the aerial to help achieve the most accurate alignment but more importantly (the possibility of) reducing interference. All our aerials come with tilting clamps except the Log40. The manufacturer`s of the latter maintain that one is not
required for Log Periodic type aerials, though I`d certainly disagree if using one on a boat or caravan.....
The aerial on the right is aligned onto Cow Hill transmitter which is high up
on a hill (would that be why it`s called Cow Hill....) next to Fort William which is down in the valley.
It must be said that it is rare to require a clamp to tilt this far !
Incidentally I don`t like the install, it`s on a fascia and it`s a Contract aerial.
Contract aerials don`t come with tilting clamps, so did the installer buy the clamp separately ?
Why not just buy a decent aerial, with a tilting clamp, in the first place ? ! ?
strength
tests
Finally we have the third type and the only type we sell
(on straight or cranked). This is the Rolls Royce of the 6ft
aerial poles and they are 1.25" x 16 gauge (1.6mm) alloy,
In normal usage, they will never fail.
Why doesn`t everyone use the latter type of pole ?
Well, two main reasons:
1) They`re more expensive and DIY shops don`t generally
tend to sell them.
2) If a weaker pole (particularly a 6ft x 1") is installed by an
aerial rigger, they probably want some "repeat business".
The second variety is the 1.25" x 18 gauge (=1.2mm) aerial pole. They are a bit stronger
than the 1” type and fine for smaller aerials, provided the top V bolt is not over tightened
which can crush the tubing and eventually lead to failure.
It must be stressed that T & Ks are used to gain more stand off, not because they`re stronger
than a pair of smaller brackets, particularly if the latter are of the welded variety. So long as the
poles V bolts will fit the bracket there is no reason why two 6x6, 6x9 or 9x9 brackets cannot be
used for a 10ft or even 16ft pole. In fact, arguably, the strongest (wall) installation would be using two 9x9 (all angle iron construction) wall brackets.
Quite apart from anything else a pair of smaller brackets will have eight wall anchors and four V bolts to secure the pole, as against only five anchors and two V bolts of the T & Ks.
Obviously the spacing of the brackets determines the strength of the installation and this varies according to the size of the aerial and the likely winds to be encountered. For small aerials in sheltered locations I`d separate the brackets by at least 1” for every foot of pole, but for large aerials in exposed areas I`d at least double it to 2” per foot of pole. Satellite dishes may require
3”, 4” or even 5” separation per foot of pole, depending on the size and exposure.
Do you really need huge T & Ks, when cranked / Supercranked poles are available ? !
We sell / install straight 3ft & 6ft poles both at 1.25” x 16G. Our 10ftPole poles are either 1.5 inch diameter or 2.0” diameter (both 16G = 1.6mm) and the latter type should be used for larger
aerials (e.g. XB16s / XB22s) or exposed locations. The 16ft is 2" x 14G (2mm), unfortunately
these are not available by mail order, though we do sell 2” Pole Couplers, e.g. to join two 8fts together, or an 8ft x 2” x 14G to a 10ft x 2” x 16G (to make an 18ft). We would not normally advise coupling two 10ft (16G) poles together, unless the aerial is small. We`d suggest using an
8ft (14G) pole and a 10ft pole, placing the thicker walled pole at the bottom.
There is also a 10 ft "caravan" pole which can be dismantled into four separate sections.
Then there are cranked (or "swan neck") poles (see picture) which are sometimes required if the pole has to clear an obstruction (the eaves for instance) though a bigger bracket can sometimes be used instead of, or as well as. One should always leave a gap of about 2" to prevent high winds causing the pole to bang against the fascia and also to facilitate maintenance of the latter. Cranked poles can also be used to move an aerials position laterally if this is required to give the antenna more of a clear path to the transmitter (say to avoid another aerial pole) or to avoid an “RF dead spot”, also see Aerial Positioning Tests. If the chimney is being used, or may ever be used, I`d recommend a cranked pole to try and get the aerial as far away from any smoke and/or fumes. I`d also place the aerial on the upwind side (of the prevailing winds) if at all possible. Bear in mind that a smaller end mounted aerial (like a Log Periodic) can sometimes be mounted below the height of the chimney pots.
We have finally been able to source 3ft cranks at 1.25”. As far as we know we are the only
people to sell (or fit) 3ft cranks at 1.25” diameter, we go the extra mile because we love quality, fantastic ! Our 3ft cranks are 3ft x 1.25” x 16G. These are so strong that they are even suitable for mounting Sky minidishes, except in particularly exposed locations.
We also sell 6ft cranks at 1.25" x 16G and 9ft cranks at 1.5” x 16G. If using one of these with an XB16 or an XB22 I`d be tempted to chop 1ft (or more ?) off the end of it.
NB Overall clearance on a 6”x 6” wall bracket with a cranked pole is approx 16”
All offsets are approximate, if this measurement is critical phone to check the exact figure.
Finally we have a 6ft Supercrank pole, which is particularly suitable for buildings with large overhangs on the fascias. It is much neater than huge T & Ks and is 1.5” x 16G with an overall height of about 5ft and an approximate offset of 24”.
The simple answer is that it`s bad practice and it
shouldn`t be done unless there is absolutely no
alternative. A bracket mounted on a wall (with the
appropriate pole to clear any overhang) is far
stronger than just attaching it to a fascia or
bargeboard. Furthermore screwing brackets to
wooden boarding greatly increases the chances
of rot setting in and makes it more awkward to
repaint them as well. Finally, many people will
eventually have UPVC replacement fascias fitted,
and then the bracket will need moving anyway.
I don`t even want to think about anyone actually
screwing an aerial to a UPVC fascia.........
* Obviously you have to make sure that your aerial is sturdy enough to withstand our feathered friends sitting on it. What you don`t want is
a Bacofoil aerial !
Pole caps are plastic caps (or bungs) placed over (or inside) the ends of aerial masts.
Their primary purpose is to prevent wind noise, though I have to say that worrying about the wind noise you`d get from the pole, when there`s an aerial mounted on the end of it, is like the captain of the Titanic worrying how much it`ll cost to clean his uniform when it gets soaked as the freezing North Atlantic water creeps inexorably up his ship......
You could argue that steel poles benefit from mast caps, because they tend to start rusting from the inside first, and the cap helps to prevent the ingress of water, though they also prevent it drying out as well, so on balance, not worth it ? Since we don`t usually recommend steel masts this is all a bit irrelevant because alloy poles (which we do advocate) don`t actually rust.
If you feel you want to use a mast cap I`d advise adding one made of decent quality insulation tape because it`ll last longer as there`s less danger of it splitting and falling off. Place a number of strips radially across the end of the pole, then run a length (stretched) round the outside of the pole to cover and strengthen them.
If you`ve found this site informative and, hopefully, interesting as well,
please help us increase the number of people reading it.
Comparison of Rawlplug type and Rawlbolt type wall fixings.
Note the collar on the wall
plug, these help to ensure the plug fits the
hole properly and tightens
up more easily without deforming.
A little flex in an aerial pole is no bad thing, it helps take some of the shock force out of the wind
loading, but Satellite Poles must be rock steady if you are keep the dish focused on that little
“geostationary” transmitter 22,000 miles above the Equator ! Thus we stock three ultra strong
alloy satellite masts, 5ft x 1.5” x 16G, 4ft x 2.0" x 14G and 8ft x 2.0” x 14G. Most Sky minidishes will
fit on a 2" pole (though you may have to enlarge the holes for the V bolt), but a few of the older
ones [fitted with the little "L" pole] will only take 1.25" poles. Check which type you`ve got !
Finally we stock galvanised steel "L section poles" of 6ft x 1.25" diameter.
Poles and Masts (including)
Brackets (including Wall Brackets and “T & K” Brackets)
Summary of which bracket to use with which pole/aerial
(Also see 3” Fence Posts and the Meaning Of Life....)
